Monday, 15 March 2010

Some thoughts on rules and painting method.

Can't believe another week has passed since my last update! So far the count of painted figures is:

British: 40 line infantry plus 4 95th Rifles. This represents the 2 x 16 figure battalions completed plus another 8 towards unit number 3, the 59 th foot. Need another box of Perry infantry to complete.

French: 24 x line infantry plus 6 skirmishers. So one battalion complete plus 8 towards number 2 and I have the final 8 undercoated ready to start.

Total painted figures so far = 74, I'm well pleased with myself! Pics next update when they all based etc.

Now a few thoughts about rules; as I mentioned before its WRG for me. I rarely find a set of rules that can play fast yet still give a good overall period fee, and I know the set quite well so see no reason not to stick with them. basing has been an issue but I have found a way round that. By thinking in terms of base frontage rather than the way figures are based WRG can still be made to work. For example, my infantry are based 4 on a 45mm frontage base, 2 deep and my cavalry will be based 2 to a 45mm wide base. The rules would state that the frontage of an 'element' should consist of 4 figures abreast BUT by simply taking the frontage of one my 'elements' and counting it as '4 figures' in firing/combat etc there is no difference! Again with cavalry, the 45mm 'element' of 2 figure frontage simply counts as 3 cavalry for any calculations. Artillery will also be on a 45mm frontage element. I have made myself an 'aid' in the great tradition of vintage wargames (I'm a big fan of the old 'bounce sticks' etc), which has marked upon it the 45mm element frontages and the number of figures it represents for infantry and cavalry. In essence the figures become 'markers' and what counts is the number of figures represented by the element frontage.... simples :-) Of course depth is an issue but I'm happy to ignore that so long as fighting/firing on flanks etc can be worked out which they can. My tatty old copy of the WRG rules from 1979 has stood the test of time and many enjoyable games and I hope they will do so for many more in the future.

Some thoughts on Perry miniatures plastics so far:

Easy to assemble and good tight fit on heads/limbs/packs etc. being able to paint them without the knapsack/cartridge box/canteen in place is a real boon and really speeds things up. I paint them separately then stick them on last thing. Every single figure in a box is usable, and while some detail ( lace etc) is not a high relief as the metals they still paint well.

Speed: I'm finding it takes no longer to paint a 28mm figure than a 15mm figure using this white undercoat method, I just love the way the paint flows just where I want it and covers in a single coat. I'm introducing a few inks too now, the GW 'brown ink' makes a perfect base colour wash for flesh (then quickly highlighted with Foundry flesh 'light') and also is great for muskets, gives real shade and definition in a wash that takes just seconds to achieve! I hope the photos will show this (to follow shortly), also a thin wash of the brown ink over a white u/coated knapsack (french) gives depth and shading hard to otherwise achieve without time consuming shading/highlighting. A BIG thank you to 'jam' of 'Wargaming in 28mm' blog for introducing me to this method some time before I decided to take the plunge again after 20+ years of painting over black, I honestly believe that had I not gone with the white base coat I would have become bogged down in lengthy and laborious painting again, and the British in particular are much brighter and 'cleaner' looking for it.

Back soon with more pics.

1 comment:

JAM said...

Thanks for the kind words Lee,